~Soaking up America~
Part 6 (the Westest Most Point and the End of the Road)
(A few images aren't mine)
Seems as though my sadly altered plans took a turn for the mo' better. Once Veronica came back from the doctors I noticed it wasn't making the "Lego in the blender" noise any more. It also shifted much smoother. We replaced the driver side CV joint and also filled up the differential with the proper thickness of oil. It was the lack of oil in the differential that was making the loud clacking noise. I drove back through the adobe stucco town Santa Fe, back to Quinn's house, gathered my things strewn about the place and off I went hell bent for Sedona! The altered plan was to drive straight to Santa Barbara to the Mercedes mechanic, but not now, I was going to Sedona after all, after 3,000 miles of looking forward to it -- I was going. Slowly the land started to transform once again. I ended up driving along this vast shrubbery area with large rock cliffs bordering the northern side, Indian territory. I was completely taken aback by the tourism within the Indian land. It was sad. All along the road huge billboards labeled "INDIAN ARTS, HAND MADE BASKETS, JEWELRY!" You couldn't get away from it, like it was some tourist attraction, like it was Disney Land, a place where white people could go see how the natives used to live. They didn't want us there and I don't blame, and I guess what was sad for me was that they were fully mixed into our capitalistic world. I really don't want to romanizes them, but it just seems a bit "put on" now, where before they made these beautiful things to help survive in a gorgeous but harsh land, and now it's as though they're made to just sell. I know there are a lot of the Indian nations holding their traditions alive, their song, their dance and customs and language, and they're doing their best for what we dealt them, but something deeper struck me as off, just off I guess, like we really fucked up bad, like their secret key to harmonious existence was held out before us.....and we spit on it and flushed it down the toilet. At several gas stations and small road side diners I observed the different nuances of their people, much like the Hawaiians they held a deep onyx-like glaze in their eyes, a wisdom we know nothing about, a beauty for the land and a powerful pride in themselves. Also, like the deep soul-felt Hawaiians, they know you're full of shit before you even open your mouth. I wanted to stay in that raw land, and learn from these masters slowly fading from our time, I wanted to soak up everything they had to teach and know well the worthiness in our reality. But, would I just be some other hipster "hanging out" with some beautiful tribal people wearing native prints just so I could brag it up to some latte sipping artist in San Francisco? Or would it be genuine and heartfelt, adopting their virtues so that my life and the ones around me could feel the truth in their ancient ways? Either case, I was already down the road when I had that thought, stuffing my face with a warm Snack-able as I drove with my knee and texted ex-girlfriends.
I entered Flagstaff and quickly started the slow descent down into Sedona area. It was night. The air was brisk and a forest appeared in the dim moon light. I could feel it again. The place had "something". I couldn't see it, but something was in the air, a buzz per se, and it wasn't from the six pack I just drank on the drive over ( joking, totally joking Dad, stop making that face and put your phone down). I drove around and found a random dirt lot to park the wagon, climbed into my sleeping bag and off I went into dream land......entered into a strange land of blurred twists, objects of familiar memory, and cars driving fast, everywhere there were cars, a hectic mess of things happening, I seemed to be driving from the back seat through a remote control, I couldn't get through the road properly, I couldn't drive with any amount of accuracy, I would spin out and have to start over like a difficult video game, nothing seemed to work, until a voice said "put the controller down and open your eyes", so I did, and there I was in the drivers seat again with both hands on the wheel dodging and swerving down the newly paved road nearing so close to the edge multiple times skidding and sliding through the wild streets, but I was in control, no longer in the back seat with the remote steering wheel.
As I woke up the light was just slicing into the valley like the orange sword of an angel, my eyes blew open with extreme excitement and I laughed, actually laughed quite loudly from the pure beauty that was surrounding me. Never in my life have I seen such picturesque formations of rock and land; everywhere I looked were bright red towers, these hearty soft loaves of earth seemed to spring out of the land, as though some deep force from under the earth's crust was blowing bubbles towards the sky that formed into the rust colored outcroppings that surround Sedona. It was truly amazing to say the least, I may have wet my self just the tiniest bit in the mad rush of my excitement. I had barely gotten my clothes on and I was off to see them up close and personal. Now, supposedly their are these "energy vortexes" there, a place where the movement of thoughts and matter in a time in space are altered just slightly. It's become sort of a spectacle similar to that of the tribes along the Southwest, like the ancient long-neck Karen tribes in Thailand, and even how Haight Ashbury Street is nowadays -- a spectacle, something to observe from afar with slight emotional distance because others have said so. But aside from that it is frothing with pure energy. Unfortunately though, our modern world is so chock full of skeptics of things that aren't visual; we've become so matter-a-fact with everything now that it's sickening. If you can't measure it then it's not real. If science can't prove it, it doesn't exist. Well, science and quantitative thinking ruined spiritually and its subtle vibrations upon which EVERYTHING is made! I honestly just feel bad for the people who are blind to such things surrounding them all the time. And you don't have to be covered in lose flowing tie-dye, with beads in your hair, yielding burning sage and a hand full of crystals to know it's there either. Sooooo, where was I? Oh right, vortexes; there are four major ones. While approaching the smooth reddened rock I started to run for some reason, full of a child-like vigor. I was on a sweet high, and so was everyone else around me. Bell rock it was called. I scrambled to the top, sat there looking out over the theatre of sights, and laughed some more, not really knowing why either. I remember that same reasonless laughter when I was 18 and just moved to Santa Barbara, walking out along Sterns Wharf it would bubble up like that as I stared back towards the guardian mountains and mystical riveria that cradles that beautiful place.
I wandered around the little gentrified town peeking into crystal shops and galleries, watching people and waiting for the sun set, to reflect off all the geographic structures at a different angle, which it did and lit it up like a fire-glowing neon paint, dripping down the faces of rock. My neck was sore from turning and twisting my head around to catch every angle from all the luscious landscapes; oddly enough my neck was similarly sore from my days in Santa Barbara..... but for a different reason. That night I almost froze to death, frost had totally encompassed my car in the morning. I spent a slow agonizing "sleep" on the hard pad in the back of the wagon, constantly rubbing my legs to keep them from goose-bumping and crystallizing like the windows had. I could see my breath the entire night. I moaned and hummed to keep my chest warm, but nothing really helped, I was ready to give up chattering and shaking and allow my soft body to become the icicle it wanted to be. I tried and tried but couldn't keep warm nor fall asleep, nor let my body freeze to death, I was wide awake the whole night. The last time I'd done that I was sitting in a tipi with 20 other people around a fire chanting, singing and puking until the sun shone its brilliant face. I like to think that a few seconds just before I was actually going to crisp into a rigid ice cube the sun came out and started the melt the ice off the windows. I smiled, moved and wiggled, and cursed my low temp-graded sleeping bag, for it was a bag to be fluffy and comfortable on your buddies couch after a night of trash talking and binge drinking, not a bag for sub-below temperatures in the middle of the wild wild wilderness! Once I emerged from the car (with great difficulty mind you), I started to walk towards the trail head through the cracking tonic of sunlight. Although, I moved like the tin man, the leg people didn't seem to communicate with the head people, and so I limped with stiff constraints through the red dirt path. Not until the top of the rocky outpost did I feel normal again, as the ice melted from the gingered hue in my beard.
As it's been my whole trip, I knew it was time to leave. I'd pranced around Sedona for several days and was more than ready to get to California (a strange beautiful 7 hour drive). I got into the driver's seat, started the car and once again the curtain came up, the Play began to unfold again as it has done for the past month, the familiar change of scenery that I've craved this whole time. But this time I'd become strangely still after leaving the tingling grips of Sedona, I wasn't yodeling or blabbering in several accents to myself as I usually do, wasn't wildly orchestrating the landscape with my nimble fingers, nor was I playing my usual games like "Close-your-eyes-and-see-how-long-you-can-drive-until-you-panic-and-open-them", none of it; just quietly contemplating the beautiful ecstasy of Sedona from where I just left. Hours passed. Until....I saw my first cactus! Wow, didn't I let out a huge face stretching laugh. I guess I've seen cacti before but I think it was years ago. I was not expecting that at all, thousands of them scattered about the country side, like an army of lost asparagus that escaped from the fridge and were caught green handed with their arms up. I couldn't stop the personification of them, each one made me giggle, chuckle and shake my head with disbelief. How absurd and awkward they looked in the desert, how proudly mundane they were, just towering over every other plant in the vicinity. I let them argue amongst themselves, and kept driving, stoping in fake franchise towns with no name, no character nor community to speak of, just McDonalds, Starbucks, Subway and Shell -- the monsters of masochistic greed. As I pulled through the dust of Yuma into the Sonoran Desert I got my first glimpse of the FENCE that boarders Mexico and the USA. It was a big, stiff black wall that went on for ever and ever, as far as the eye could see. I didn't know what to make of it, and still don't; but something struck me when I saw it, a sadness that I could never explain in some egoic debate on a velvet couch.
I drove on and on in the hot desert, thinking that if the car did break down then this is where she'd do it, so I kept a keen eye and ear to her every hiccup, shake or sputter. Far away but slowly, a sand dune wall was looming in the great distance. Upon entering into it I noticed how the delicate hand of the wind had sculpted the sharp edges. Shadows played stark, contrasting dividers along those edges. My imagination took me through a fantasy land of whipped toasted butter. I wanted to be rolling around in it. I looked for a place to pull off and frolic, but there were none. I envied the souls who owned the scrambling foot prints speckled along the sandy sides. After a few hours I came to another looming barrier in the distance, much like the sand dunes but darker. As I approached I noticed it was mountains and mountains of boulders! Yah! Just boulders. No shrubs, no earth, no large rock faces, just boulders on top of boulders on top of boulders, acres of over the shoulder boulder holders holding more boulders amongst boulders. Once more I laughed out loud and kept driving in disbelief. How come no one told me this country was so full of strange beautiful things?
My nerves were still rattled from the California boarder inspection stop. Something about uniformed angry looking men holding semi-autos and a wealth of too much power do something to my nerves. I had nothing to be scared of, I had no illegal substances in the car, but yet, I still got nervous. As I stopped at the check point, two burly officers gripping personal bazookas stood on each side of me glaring into my timid eyes. Miles of cars were in line behind me, I was up, I rolled down my window and what came out of my nervous mouth was "Howz it?", a variation of "How are you?" but in slang Hawaiian style, used in a connotation of a rhetorical "Hello". He said nothing, just looked at me with those menacing eyes, they both walked real slowly down the sides of my car looking at all my junk concealed under my Native American print blankets. I turned beat red. "They got me" I though, but for no good reason; it'll be hours until they get done going through all my pant pockets and breaking my ukelele open looking for drugs. And just as the sweat was starting to drip into my eyes, stinging them ever so slightly, I looked up at him like a small bunny must look like before it gets torn apart and eaten by a ravaged wolf. And with the carelessness of a lazy junky he just waved me on without ever saying a word.
There is something about California that really wets my whistle. A comfort. A familiar smell maybe, but something about this place has the feeling of a gorgeous woman, a goddess that has graced herself into your bed, a woman of high spiritual morals, long dark curly hair, bedazzled in ancient jewelry, she smells of sweet musk as she kisses your neck, as she chases your toes in the sand; a traveling woman that never settles but always holds a great deal of contentment with every action or utterance that steps from her spirit, a woman that whispers all the secrets of heaven in your ear as she drips wax down the nape of your neck; a universal goddess that I've danced with to the most welcoming of waltzes but known too well I could never hold her down long enough to grow a garden. That's California!
After a month on the road, it feels good to be on the other side. The Pacific Ocean has a smell and taste that only a surfer would know. I have several hundred more miles to go north, up into the land of Redwoods where I shall stay for a wee while, but that's all been done before and don't feel the need to add it to my Westward and Whimsical adventures. But as of now, sitting with my huge class of hot puerh tea in San Diego, I'm a bit in shock still. How did I get here? What did I see? What did I do? All these questions are starting to flood into my tired brain, but I don't have the capacity to answer them just yet. But I do know I feel accomplished, I feel a sense of achievement that was really needed in my life at this point. I also know that it'll take a lot of chiropractic work to undo the pain I caused my back after driving for a month in such compromising positions. I know that people are what fuel me, but being alone isn't as bad as I've ramped it up to be, the anxious fiddling of being alone in front of your ego tends to drift away after the first few days. I also really noticed that there is a serious psychological disease clenching our society, something is OFF, with the amount of pollution and warfare that's totally
inundated our globe it just seems like we lost the path somewhere a ways back. Like we should be doing better by now. I really do have high hopes for our human race, but we might just need to be bitch slapped across the face.
And thus is the end:
I'm So unbelievably thankful for the gracious friends that helped me along the way with places to stay, good conversation, happy hearts, sound advice and necessary laughter: Galen Koch, Birch Hincks, Cora Comstock, Travis Fifield, Brooke and Hope Slemmer, Herbert Drexel Carter the Third, Avril Guerrero, Natalie Meyers, Sarah Melendez, Liz Kimbrough, Ben Brajkovich, Quinn Curtin, the lovely Nouel Riel and Mr. Justin Waldman! And of course Pete Collin for the chariot, and Sandy Buxton. And for people like Mason London, Mike Feldman and Jared Buxton for keeping me company on the tele durning long expanses of geographical nothingness.
"On the road again. Just can't wait to get on the road again, the life I love is making music with my friends, and I just can't wait to get on the road again"
-Willie Nelson

















